What’s in a name? Perhaps most of the uneasiness attached to the EDK comes from the name itself. Although the origin seems to have been lost to the mists of time, the name was likely bestowed by American climbers when introduced to the offset overhand bend by Europeans.
In this post
What is an EDK climbing?
The EDK is a completely bonafide knot for tying two rappel ropes together, but it must be tied properly every time and used only in the appropriate situations. This is true of every knot we use in climbing. The EDK gets a bad reputation because of its unfortunate name.
Can a figure 8 knot fail?
The offset figure-eight bend is a poor knot that has been implicated in the deaths of several rock climbers. The knot may capsize (invert) under load, as shown in the figure, and this can happen repeatedly. Each inversion reduces the lengths of the tails. Once the tails are used up completely, the knot comes undone.
What’s the best knot for tying two ropes together?
Double Fisherman’s Knot (Grapevine Knot)
The Double Fisherman’s is a very secure way to join two ropes or form a cord into a loop. It’s very difficult to untie after it gets weighted, so it makes a good choice for Prusik loops. The Double Fisherman’s is essentially two double overhand knots pulled together.
What is a scaffold knot?
The Scaffold Knot makes a sturdy loop that slides like a noose to fit snugly around a bar, rail or other object. It may be protected against wear due to chafing by the insertion of a lining called a thimble, creating what sailors refer to as a “hard eye”.
What’s the strongest knot?
The Palomar Knot is arguably the strongest all-around knot. Due to its use of a double line, it is as efficient at maintaining a high breaking strength as it is easy to tie.
What is a Yosemite finish?
A Yosemite bowline is made from a bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, a final round turn and reeve commonly known as a “Yosemite finish.” The knot’s security is enhanced by preventing the bowline capsizing to form a highly dangerous slip knot.
What knot is the modern standard to tie in?
Double figure 8 / Rethreaded Figure 8 Knot
Best Used for: Tying into the harness, constructing belays, securing abseil ropes. This is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness, and the most frequently used of all climbers’ knots.
What is the other term for Flemish Bend?
The Flemish bend, also known as a figure eight bend, a rewoven figure eight is a knot for joining two ropes of roughly similar size.
How do knots fail?
There are two causes of knot failure: Slippage and breakage. Slippage can occur for two reasons: Tying the wrong fishing knot for the type of line in use, or improperly tying the right knot.
Is overhand knot safe?
A single overhand knot is not a suitable tie-in knot. That’s not to say all overhand knots are death sentences. A well-tied double over hand knot can be secure, but it will always be vastly inferior to a figure-eight follow through for two reasons.
What is the difference between a square knot and a granny knot?
The granny knot is a binding knot, used to secure a rope or line around an object. It is considered inferior to the reef knot (square knot), which it superficially resembles. Neither of these knots should be used as a bend knot for attaching two ropes together.
| Granny knot | |
|---|---|
| ABoK | #3, #80, #186, #464, #1206, #1405, #2553 |
How strong is the Zeppelin Bend?
Zeppelin/Rosendahl Bend
It’s secure when tugged even when initially unfastened and dangly, and its breaking strength is apparently around 75-80%.
What is a Prusik knot used for?
They are primarily used in rock climbing, mountaineering, and caving, especially during an ascent. As the loop is weighted, the Prusik cord knot strengthens against the rope which is why the Prusik knot is considered a type of friction hitch.
Which knot creates a loop that will not slip?
7. Taut-line hitch. Why use it: This knot creates an adjustable loop that can easily slide up and down a rope to tighten or loosen the tension of the rope. Under tension, the knot will lock into place so it won’t slip.
What is the king of knots?
The bowline is sometimes referred to as King of the knots because of its importance. Along with the sheet bend and the clove hitch, the bowline is often considered one of the most essential knots.
What is a figure 8 Bend used for?
The Figure 8 Bend is used to tie two ropes together. It is a self-locking knot and the large bends make it easier to untie after the rope has been loaded than other knots.
What is Munter Mule overhand for?
The Munter Mule is used to secure a munter. It is also used to escape or lock a loaded line in place with the excess rope.
What knot is used for snares?
The Poacher’s Knot
Names: The Poacher’s Knot is also known as a Strangle Snare and a Double Overhand Noose – because the knot tied round the standing end is known as a Strangle Knot (ABOK # 1239, p 224.)